After the opening in Lisbon
nd
The 32 PORTUGAL
FASHION VIBE continues
at ‘Alfândega’ with over
26 fashion shows
Nine young designers and one brand (Bloom Space), nine consecrated
designers, nine brands of clothing and seven brands of footwear will present
their autumn-winter 2013-14 collections
The opening of the runway belongs to Katty Xiomara and the closing to Luis
Onofre
Emphasis on fashion shows by Miguel Vieira, celebrating his silver
anniversary, Luis Buchinho, with his line of knitwear, and Felipe Oliveira
Batista, who shows all his "Restlessness" in an almost obsessive work on
shapes
VIBE is the concept that inspires this 32nd edition
The 32nd PORTUGAL FASHION VIBE meets the ‘Alfândega’ building in Porto, its last and
longest stage. After opening in Lisbon on March 20th, the event continues during the next
three days with over 26 fashion shows. Between March 21st and 23rd, nine young designers
and a brand (Bloom Space), nine consecrated designers, nine brands of clothing and seven
brands of footwear will present their fall-winter 2013-14 collections. These numbers should
also include the four fashion shows in Lisbon, with five new designers and the duo
Alves/Gonçalves and Fátima Lopes.
For the Chief Executive Officer of ANJE, organizer of the event,
“the quality, diversity and extent of the fashion show
program is proof of the strength of PORTUGAL FASHION,
even during the difficult situation that the country is
experiencing. With strict management, hard work and the
support of our partners, we managed to put together another edition
of PORTUGAL FASHION to the standard of the remarkable history of the
event and of that which is best made in international fashion. We think that
with this additional proof of vitality, PORTUGAL FASHION also reflects the good
moment in Portuguese fashion, in creative terms and in terms of international
recognition”, guarantees Manuel Lopes Teixeira.
Another proof of the “good moment in Portuguese fashion” is, for Manuel Lopes Teixeira,
“the new generation of designers emerging at Bloom Space”, a platform created by
PORTUGAL FASHION to promote young designers. For the Chief Executive Officer of
ANJE, “the quality shown by the young designers who have been supported by
PORTUGAL FASHION is a guarantee that Portuguese fashion has a future and that
creativity tends to strengthen the competitiveness of the national clothing and
footwear sector”.
This person in charge also stresses that “the option for dividing the fashion shows
between Lisbon and Porto is the renewal of the bet in a winning model”. In fact, he
adds, “the presence in the capital has allowed greater visibility to new designers and
has enhanced international notoriety of the PORTUGAL FASHION brand, without
affecting the historical connection of the event with Porto - the nerve centre of the
Fashion Trade in our country”.
Going a little against the dismay that we are experiencing in Portuguese society,
PORTUGAL FASHION chose a positivist concept as theme for this edition: VIBE. This
English word is probably what best defines the effect that an artistic creation generates on
those who are enjoying it. A painting, a sculpture, a piece of music, a film or even a gourmet
dish can cause this tremor, this shake, this swing that is nothing but the aesthetic pleasure
unfolding. In short: a vibration.
Fashion also causes vibration, and how! In setting new trends through the subversion of the
canon and the definition of cutting-edge concepts, fashion acts like a tuning fork that, when
tapped, causes an aesthetic shock. That is, in fact, the primary obligation of fashion: to cause
vibrations and thus generate a transformative energy on how people dress and in the
understanding of clothing itself, as being not only a functional
creation but also an artistic one.
By choosing this theme for its 32nd edition, PORTUGAL
FASHION seeks to celebrate the vibrating sensation that fashion
can cause with its unusual forms, its precarious balances, its inspiring
combinations, its stimulating colours... In the end, it is about extolling the
diversity of ways in which people become impressed or even touched by
fashion creations.
Three fashion shows not to be missed
In the ‘Alfândega’ building, the 32nd PORTUGAL FASHION VIBE kicks off big time with
fashion shows by Katty Xiomara, Júlio Torcato and Anabela Baldaque. At 8:30pm on
Thursday, March 21st, a feminine collection that interprets the "new forms of urban art, allied
to the ancestral concepts of decoration of urban heritage" takes to the catwalk. In Katty
Xiomara’s new proposals, "the traditional Portuguese tile serves as canvas for a symbolic
expression of street art, which, when translated into clothes, reveals simple and clean
contours. The great ornament is centred on the graphic representative element of these two
artistic visions", says the designer.
In this "urban and feminine collection with a strong attitude, (…) the shapes are geometric,
but fluent in trace and always displayed with some symmetry. Some pieces are delineated by
contrasting lines in black and cobalt blue. The first colour defines the primary feature and the
second reflects the colour traditionally used in tiles, where it gets its name from. The base
colours are centred on off-white, black and glacier grey, harmonized by a warmer palette of
burnt orange shades".
Up next is Júlio Torcato with a collection entitled "Porto" which is aimed at "an elegant and
urban male audience with a strong personality, who requires originality, quality and identity",
says the designer. According to his own words, it is all about a "collection of classic
inspiration, but very contemporary, implemented with the best tradition of custom tailoring".
Features of the collection: rigorous custom cuts in pieces made with high-quality materials
and finishes, such as pure wools or those mixed with silk and more technical materials
(neoprene and nylon). The colours are predominantly dark: dark brown, grey, burgundy and
dark blue, highlighted with some livelier shades such as ochre yellow, red, duck blue and
violet.
Closing the event on the 21st, Anabela Baldaque presents the collection "And then there was
light...", where "the woman always ends up being the relaxed, seductive, romantic diva, but
this time round, a little more pop". In more irreverent looks intended
for the everyday life, Anabela Baldaque contrasts totally plain
pieces with plaid and squared patterns, creating atmospheres
of the 60s and 70s. The collection highlights wide coats, some in
trespass or with zip; the collars; the textures applied to lace and fur;
shirt dresses; tight masculine pants; short pleated skirts in godet. As for
the materials, the designer favoured the smooth nappas with cuts and shiny
textures, smooth or fancy wools, tweeds in wool blend, silks and sequins fabrics.
Luís Buchinho reveals his knits
On Friday the 22nd, at 6pm, the fashion shows at Bloom Space start, whilst in the main
runway, designers Ricardo Preto, Luis Buchinho and Miguel Vieira are the main attractions.
For the Meam brand, Ricardo Preto designed the collection "Casa Corpo” (Body Home)
aimed at "a modern educated woman, healthy and attentive to the challenges of today's
society, with the ultra-feminine ambition to inspire love and admiration". The silhouette is
slim, with counterpoint volumes and skin-tight pieces. "Patterns, rugs, camouflages,
landscapes, tigers and lions, printed and embroidered in gold colour, add emphasis to the
silks, cottons and wools", says the designer. In terms of colour, Ricardo Preto favoured red,
green and blue, contrasting with the black, yellow and white.
After presenting the collection "Lady vs Boyish" by Diogo Miranda, Luís Buchinho parades
the latest proposals of his line of knitwear. With the label Luis Buchinho Knitwear, the
designer reveals a collection that "has great influence from the industrial design of the 70s,
translated into a line of pieces for daily use, with an accentuated urban dimension". "Simple
and effective graphics with unusual colour combinations abound, where the bars and the
blocks of colour are evident in all the silhouettes". In the forms, there is a "contrast between
the male/female subject in straight and comfortable silhouettes". The colour palette includes
black, white, mint green, army green, mole grey, burgundy and blues with grey pigment.
Finally, the materials used were viscose jersey, cotton jersey, leather, fur, bouclé wool and
knits in different plays and threads.
Before closing the runway with the collection "Origins" from TMcollection by Teresa Martins,
Miguel Vieira offers sophisticated looks for charismatic and confident women, but also
beautiful and elegant, with a strong personality. In the year in which he celebrates 25 years
of work, the designer conceived pieces that "alternate between the hourglass and
rectangular silhouette, short or long; slightly oversized jackets and baggy pants; knee-length
or mini dresses and skirts". This new collection by Miguel Vieira reveals distinctive details,
such as the plays of volumes and asymmetries, the large ruffles and the mixtures of colours
and textures. Another interesting detail is the raglan sleeves, with
or without volume. The cloud-white, angora, champagne, new
gold, liquor-brown, anthracite and night-black are applied to
materials as diverse as sequins on silk base, jacquard fabrics with
floral and animal patterns, plain fabrics, plain tweeds and tweeds with
sequins.
Luís Onofre closes the runway
On Saturday, the fashion show program begins with the usual collective presentation of
national clothes brands. It is up to “Concreto” by Helder Batista, “Cheyenne”, “MDS - Mad
Dragon Seeker” and “Dom Colletto” to dignify the recognized quality of national ready-towear clothes – a sector of the textile industry whose exports grew the most in the last year.
Such responsibility also falls on the brands Cohibas, Dkode, Fly London, Goldmud +
Alexandra Moura, Nobrand, J. Reinaldo and Silvia Rebatto to represent the aesthetic and
competitive strength of the footwear industry, which already exports 95% of its production
and is the third with the most expensive products in the world. All these brands will reveal, in
a collective fashion show, their collections of shoes for the upcoming cold season.
By mid-afternoon, the main runway of the 32nd PORTUGAL FASHION VIBE will welcome the
creations of a designer much acclaimed by the public in recent editions of the event. We’re
talking about Carlos Gil, who proposes "a look that mixes the boldness of the '60s with the
'repealed glam' style of the 70s". The silhouette features a "tailor cut" in which "the waistline
gains leadership". Neutral colours abound, such as white, black and camel, which mix giving
rise to the colours Azalia pink and jungle green. In terms of materials, a range of fabrics
"conveys the purest animal style", says the designer. With this collection, Carlos Gil wants to
dress "a wild woman who affirms herself as modern, nonconformist, claiming her position in a
male-dominated society".
Next, Vicri brings us haute-couture with the collection "Wonder Men", in which he proposes a
"total look with strong influence from the rockabilly movement". On the other hand, the
fashion show by Lion of Porches brings us the novelty in presenting, for the first time, a Kids
collection for girl and boy. "This collection combines flagship pieces of the brand, of British
inspiration, exquisite in terms of detail and the materials used – trench coats, caban coats with more comfortable and relaxed pieces that kids love so much - sweatshirts, polos, and
denims - so as to complete the casual-chic look", says Lion of Porches.
One of the highlights of the 32nd PORTUGAL FASHION VIBE is undoubtedly the fashion
show by Felipe Oliveira Batista. This time, the designer from the Azores who lives in Paris
where he is creative director for Lacoste, proposes a collection in which the forms acquire an
almost obsessive primacy. In his new work, the Portuguese
aesthetic influence is very present, namely through the
performance-images by artist Helena Almeida, the film "Taboo"
by Miguel Gomes and the book "Livro do Desassossego" by
Fernando Pessoa. "It's an aesthetic yet to be defined; a mixture of
silent austerity and bright sensuality that finds a natural expression in a
version of clothes that is both flexible and constructed", explains Felipe
Oliveira Batista.
In the collection entitled "Inquietude” (Restlessness), the designer uses very heterogeneous
materials: hybrid fabrics, wool with a touch of organza, double-sided wool and muslin, nylon
and ultra-shiny lurex for prints, liquid satin, nylon and silk, washed leather and sealed suede.
This variety results in a "play between rigidity and flexibility, touch and light effects". The
volumes, in turn, are "trimmed or asymmetric". We have "masculine reconstructed coats with
drooping shoulders"; "shapes that embrace the body or pull away from it, marking or erasing
the cut"; "unusually large dresses and skirts". The silhouette is "often monochromatic, even
the prints, sometimes playing with contrasts in black. Neutral colours associated with a
palette that seems to have been erased by time, half-tones of grey, flamingo pink, midnight
blue and teal" make up the chromatic set of this collection by Felipe Oliveira Batista.
After Dielmar presents its haute couture, this time with vintage and retro looks, Luis Onofre
closes the 32nd PORTUGAL FASHION VIBE with his latest collection of women’s shoes and
handbags. Born in Oliveira de Azeméis, Luis Onofre exports over 90% of his production and
has sales agents representing his brand in France, Germany, Greece, Holland, Italy,
Denmark, Sweden, Norway, USA, Israel, Canada, among others countries. Note that the
designer has developed collections for Kenzo and Cacharel, having also provided shoes of
his brand to celebrities like the Spanish Princess Letizia Ortiz, the socialite Paris Hilton, the
actress Naomi Watts and the U.S. first lady, Michelle Obama. The closing ceremony with
Luis Onofre is also recognition of the socio-economic importance of the Portuguese footwear
industry, one of the most competitive, creative and value-added of the world.
PORTUGAL FASHION is a project of the responsibility of ANJE - National Association of
Young Entrepreneurs in partnership with ATP - Portuguese Association of Textile and
Clothing, currently being funded by NSRF under the Programme ‘Compete’ - Operational
Programme for Competitiveness Factors.
For more information, contact:
PORTUGAL FASHION PRESS OFFICE - Rafael Alves Rocha
t. 91 9408071 | e. [email protected] | w. www.portugalfashion.com
PORTUGAL FASHION
renews its bet on young
designers with 12 fashion
shows from Bloom Space
At the ‘Alfândega’ Building, in Porto, collections by designers Cláudia Garrido,
Carla Pontes, Stefano Ficetola, Joana Ferreira, Teresa Abrunhosa, Carlos Couto,
Mafalda Fonseca, Diana Matias, João Melo Costa and the brand KLAR will be
presented
At Carpe Diem Art and Research, Lisbon, fashion shows by Susana Bettencourt and
Hugo Costa and by Andreia Lexim, Estelita Mendonça and Daniela Barros will take
place.
Coordination of fashion shows provided by Miguel Flor
The 32nd PORTUGAL FASHION VIBE includes in its line-up 12 fashion shows (individual and
collective) by young designers. After opening in Lisbon with the designs of five emerging talents, it
is time for nine young designers and one brand to have the opportunity to showcase their
collections for the cold season, under the 6th edition of Bloom Space on March 22nd and 23rd. Note
that Bloom Space is a platform created by PORTUGAL FASHION specifically for discovering and
consolidating new talent in Portuguese fashion, providing them with the opportunity to present their
work in an alternative catwalk of the event. As such, PORTUGAL FASHION is contributing to the
generational renewal of the Portuguese Fashion Trade and consequently to the qualification of its
human capital, since these are young people most of which have specific training in the area.
In Lisbon, Susana Bettencourt shared the catwalk with Hugo Costa, and
Andreia Lexim, Estelita Mendonça and Daniela Barros come together
in a collective fashion show. In Porto there will be nine young
designers and one brand presenting their collections, in individual
fashion shows, on the catwalk of Bloom Space. They are Cláudia Garrido,
Carla Pontes, Stefano Ficetola, Joana Ferreira, Teresa Abrunhosa, Carlos
Couto, Mafalda Fonseca, Diana Matias, João Melo Costa and the brand KLAR
(Alexandre Marrafeiro, Andreia Oliveira and Tiago Carneiro).
All these young designers have prior experience in Portugal Fashion, though Mafalda Fonseca has
participated through a fashion show at MODATEX Porto and now debuts with an individual fashion
show. Estelita Mendonça, Daniela Barros and Hugo Costa have uninterruptedly marked their
presence since the 1st edition of Bloom Space, held on the 27th PORTUGAL FASHION, in October
2010. Also, Daniela Barros participated, with the support of PORTUGAL FASHION, at the Zip
Zone showroom during Paris Fashion Week (September/October 2012). Note also that, in
December last, PORTUGAL FASHION offered the designers Carla Pontes, Daniela Barros,
Estelita Mendonça, Hugo Costa, Joana Ferreira and João Melo Costa the opportunity to present
their collections at Matadero - Centre for Contemporary Design, in Madrid.
There is therefore a matured work in the promotion of young designers already being made by
PORTUGAL FASHION, an event that believes in new talent in Portuguese fashion and in the
technical training that has been given to them. For this reason, PORTUGAL FASHION has
provided public exposure of the creations by these designers, while allowing them to gain
experience in a large fashion event and get closer to the clothes industry. It should be added that
this promotional work is also being developed on an international scale, in order to boost the entry
of new Portuguese designers in foreign markets and refresh the image that the outside has of
national fashion.
“New Blood” under the orientation of Miguel Flor
Created in 2010, Bloom Space steps away from the traditional concept of runway in order to
provide new designers with fashion shows in a more informal, urban and multi-artistic environment.
The coordination of Bloom Space has since the beginning been entrusted to stylist Miguel Flor,
who selects young designers and structures their fashion performances.
The focus on young designers has long been a pillar of PORTUGAL FASHION’s strategy. The
event seeks to act as a lever for emerging talent in order to renew the national fashion scene, to
facilitate the integration of new designers in the labour market and to fill any gaps that companies
in the textile, clothing and footwear industry may have in terms of design.
By launching new hopes, PORTUGAL FASHION is also streamlining the
entire circuit of national fashion. More designers in the market means
added value for the industrial production and a higher volume of
activities in the Fashion Trade (fashion shows, showrooms, tradeshows,
castings...), with all that this implies in terms of human resources (models,
stylists,
accessorizers,
makeup
artists,
sound
and
light
photographers ...) and materials.
For more information, contact:
PORTUGAL FASHION PRESS OFFICE - Rafael Alves Rocha
t. 91 9408071 | e. [email protected] | w. www.portugalfashion.com
technicians,
Good Vibes…
A vibration. This is probably the feeling that best describes the effect that an artistic creation
generates on those who are enjoying it. A painting, a sculpture, a piece of music, a film or even a
gourmet dish can cause this tremor, this shake, this swing that is nothing but the aesthetic
pleasure unfolding. In short: a vibration.
Fashion also causes vibration, and how! In setting new trends through the subversion of the canon
and the definition of cutting-edge concepts, fashion acts like a tuning fork that, when tapped,
causes an aesthetic shock. That is, in fact, the primary obligation of fashion: to cause vibrations
and thus generate a transformative energy on how people dress and in the understanding of
clothing itself, as being not only a functional creation but also an artistic one.
VIBE is the theme for this 32nd PORTUGAL FASHION. This English word reinforces the idea of
energy that fills the body with life and the mind with thoughts, feelings and dreams. To feel a vibe is
thus to enjoy the pleasant shock waves that artistic creations usually release on people.
By choosing this theme for its 32nd edition, PORTUGAL FASHION seeks to celebrate the vibrating
sensation that fashion can cause with its unusual forms, its precarious balances, its inspiring
combinations, its stimulating colours... In the end, it is about extolling the diversity of ways in which
people become impressed or even touched by fashion creations.
For more information, contact:
PORTUGAL FASHION PRESS OFFICE - Rafael Alves Rocha
t. 91 9408071 | e. [email protected] | w. www.portugalfashion.com