À COLECIONADORA – Luiza Marcier
21 + 12 flying dresses
September 7 – October 20
Opening reception September 7, 6 p.m.
À Colecionadora is the state in which Luiza Marcier presents her creations.
The state may be:
1. A 10-minute fashion show on a runway at a “fashion” event…ughh!
2. Four years in a store inside her father’s art gallery – a place of objects that were almost alive during the fun era that
was the 1980s – during the novo riche pre-consumer phase of one of the first shopping centers in the city of Rio de
Janeiro in the barrio of Gávea.
3. About a bride in a wedding dress laced with cigarette burn holes, a post-combustion dress - fruit of the combustion
between human beings. A recorded message: “The dress will self-destruct during the ceremony”.
4. In a street across from the college where you got your degree (….).
5. In models that walk on tables in a Rio bar.
6. In a projection of drawings of clothes onto a white dress over the body of a magician’s assistant in a travel agency in a
deactivated train station in downtown Rio.
7. In the blue ink of a Bic pen scrawled over white, x-rayed on the black background, stamped with footprints of sandal
with uniform straight-line movements.
8. A state of bololô.
9. In a square.
10. In a lucky streak.
11. In a scribble.
12. In a huge square.
13. In a theater piece.
14. 15. 16. 17. 18. Hanging on hanger over a white wall, clothes that are painting in a store-gallery in your home.
Clothes on the street, they bundle up, travel, fold over and go. Clothes that exist, clothes that don’t yet exist drawn and
glued to a white wall. Intermediate clothes, clothes with projected light.
À Colecionadora is solid, punk, liquid and gaseous. It dresses the mutant human being.
Luiza Marcier knows she is À Colecionadora, so she sews a sensorial script from among her own collections. A scribble
makes her present, a curve is mounted and dissolved, color yourself inside and fly.
12 pieces of clothing from overlapping eras, from different layers (geological?) of time, from some of the 12 months of the
year, from any year, from a deactivated station are À Colecionadora.
21 flying dresses over a foreigner’s or Rio’s bodies? À Colecionadora
Galerie Catherine Bastide
62 Chaussée de Forest – 1060 Saint-Gilles - +32 (0) 2 646 2971
[email protected] - www.catherinebastide.com
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Galerie Catherine Bastide
62 Chaussée de Forest – 1060 Saint-Gilles - +32 (0) 2 646 2971
[email protected] - www.catherinebastide.com
3
Galerie Catherine Bastide
62 Chaussée de Forest – 1060 Saint-Gilles - +32 (0) 2 646 2971
[email protected] - www.catherinebastide.com
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GALERIECATHERINEBASTIDE
62 Chaussée de Forest – B-1060 Bruxelles - T: +32 (0) 2 646 29 71 - F: +32 (0) 2 538 61 67 - [email protected] www.catherinebastide.com
LUIZA MARCIER
Luiza Marcier, almost 33 years old, was born in Rio de
Janeiro. In 1977, she received her degree in Design from
the Industrial Design School in Rio de Janeiro and has
been working with clothes since she was 1 8 years old.
In 199 8, she launched her brand “À Colecionadora” in
an amusing stand at the Babylonian Fair “Hype” in Rio
de Janeiro. At her stand visitors entered a white canvas
square through a huge circle and tried on clothes on a
cushioned floor.
In 1999, because of her work at the fair, Luiza was
invited to give a show with her brand name at the Rio de
Janeiro Fashion Week. Instead of the traditional
promenade, À Colecionadora showed squares that
assembled and dissembled, outlining in the air ideas of
clothes – three-dimensional sketches.
That same year Luiza presented a fashion show with
clothes made of plastic bags, held on the lake at the
Modern Art Museum, as a guest of the poet Chacal at the
Almanac 99 event.
In 2000, in response to an invitation for a collective fashion show commemorating Brazil’s 500 th
anniversary, Luiza developed her work “holes”. There were three organza party dresses with cigarette
burn holes through which threads passed and restructured, deconstructed or weaved the clothes. The
dresses unfolded into a series of skirts.
In 2001, the first “À Colecionadora” store was inaugurated in Gávea in Rio de Janeiro. It functioned
until 2005 with a wall on which dresses were hung as drawings or paintings – a gallery-stage for an
incessant parade of ideas, images and collections. Each collection launched there also created certain
trends in Rio’s fashion fevers: head bands, t-shirts, sandals or dresses. Moreover, it is an unmistakable
style that can be recognized and divulged on the streets of Rio – the thoughts of À Colecionadora about
Rio’s fashions.
In 2002, at Fashion Rio, the city’s official fashion week that was inaugurated at that time, Luiza showed
a summer collection in which the À Colecionadora humour appeared spontaneously by using the
professional fashion structure (models, runway) to speak about building images through clothes.
In 2003, in a collection entitled “Ethnic Groups for the Moon”, once again on the Fashion Rio calendar,
À Colecionadora was outstanding. The brand gained its first and already classic stamp, simulating a
constellation. Along with various questions there were also proposals. Black silk dresses perforated by
laser cuts that deferred to the cigarette burn holes. Organza dresses with wool threads designing the
body. Sketched wedding dresses brought the design of a dress over a trial of a dress. And a collage dress
of various parts of the soul.
Galerie Catherine Bastide
62 Chaussée de Forest – 1060 Saint-Gilles - +32 (0) 2 646 2971
[email protected] - www.catherinebastide.com
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At the end of 2003, when the store seemed to be fitting into the profile to launch fashion for street wear,
Luiza left the traditional fashion circuit and took À Colecionadora to the runways at bars. Models
promenaded on the tables of Rio’s bohemian bars wearing a collection stamped with the logos of the
bars in Rio, dresses and skirt inspired by tablecloths and napkins and t-shirts about city icons.
In 2004, she presented the first compilation of her work with tailor-made clothes at an exhibit.
Mannequins were dressed as brides and bridesmaids watching the festivities passing by. The atmosphere
was a restaurant-bistro-café in Ipanema.
Also in 2004, Luiza returned to Fashion Rio to show her dress
collection and ideas inspired by Bic pen scribbles…doodled
organza dresses, sandals that stamped the runway blue and
white, À Colecionadora scrawling her view of fashion shows
and runways. Afterwards, these doodles spread around the
city, throughout Brazil and the world. In October of this year,
Luiza was invited to show her collection at the Mercado
Mundo Mix, a fashion fair in Portugal.
In 2005, with scenery of paper houses, À Colecionadora
walked through a kindergarten stage setting in a show at
Fashion Rio. The doodles now took other shapes and were
expanded in clothes-drawings on clothes. The collection after
some time was also closing a research cycle, in order to begin
another.
In 2006, À Colecionadora presented a monologue fashion
show of an intermediate collection. A room in an old travel
agency at a deactivated train station…a single model, a slide
projector, several drawings and ideas for clothes projected
onto a white dress. The unique experience of the fashion show
repeated several times, and never the same.
Throughout the years, since 1995, Luiza has produced numerous works for costumes in films, video
clips and theatre, and in all of them seeking an appropriate form, gentle or radical, to translate in
clothes the particular universe of each work.
Furthermore, Luiza developed some live performances such as how to make clothes at the
“Miscellaneous” event at a cinema in downtown Rio in 2001, and the performance “I Can’t Get This
Book Out of My Head” together with the publisher Anna Dantes from the A Gentil Carioca Gallery in
2006.
Since 2004, her desire to make clothes and think about fashion has been extended to the desire to
transmit. For two years Luiza was a fashion consultant at NGOs for artisans at the Art-Industry Project by
the Rio de Janeiro Federation of Industries. Presently, she is a professor of fashion creation at the design
courts at PUC.
In August of this year, À Colecionadora will launch together with the publisher Dantes the Conde Fortas
catalogue published for the first time in Belgium in 1 840 – a work about the imaginary world, a
compilation of books and ideas that have never existed.
In September/2007, invited by Galerie Catherine Bastide, she will be in Brussels to present her collection
21+12 flying dresses, a project room that intends to spread Rio’s À Colecionadora fashions throughout
the world.
Galerie Catherine Bastide
62 Chaussée de Forest – 1060 Saint-Gilles - +32 (0) 2 646 2971
[email protected] - www.catherinebastide.com
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GALERIECATHERINEBASTIDE
62 Chaussée de Forest – B-1060 Bruxelles - T: +32 (0) 2 646 29 71 - F: +32 (0) 2 538 61 67 - [email protected] www.catherinebastide.com
LUIZA MARCIER
Born 1974 in Rio de Janeiro
199 8 À Colecionadora, fashion design label, Rio de Janeiro
2001-2005 store À Colecionadora in Gávea, Rio de Janeiro
EDUCATION
1998 Central St. Martin’s School of Arts London
First Steps to Fashion
1993-1997 ESDI School of Design of Rio de Janeiro
graduation
SOLO FASHION SHOWS AND COLLECTIONS
2006 desfile Monologo de uma coleção Intermediária (
Monologue fashion show about an intermediate
collection ) intermediary collection performed by Luciana
Froes, RioCenaContemporanea festival, Leopoldina Station,
Rio de Janeiro
2005 Através do Tempo ( Through time ) winter collection,
Fashion Rio , Rio de janeiro
2004 caneta, papel e tesoura (pen, paper and scissors)
summer collection, Fashion Rio, Rio de Janeiro
2003 bares (bars) summer collection, Baixo Gávea, Bar e
restaurante Hippodromo, Rio de Janeiro
2003 etnias para a lua (ethnies for the moon) winter
collection, Fashion Rio, Rio de Janeiro
2002 calças (pants) summer collection, Fashion Rio, Rio de
Janeiro
1999 quadrados (squares) summer collection, Fashion Rio, Rio de Janeiro
1997 clássicos no moderno (classic’nmodern) graduation collection, ESDI, School of Design of Rio de
Janeiro
PERFORMANCES
2006 Esse Livro Não Me Sai da Cabeça, performance with Anna Dantes and guests, exhibition De
Repente Livros, A Gentil Carioca Gallery, Rio de Janeiro
2002 live clothes making – Carnival Edition, curator Chacal, Miscelanea festival , Odeon Cine, Rio de
Janeiro
2001 live clothes making - Junina Party Edition, performance, curator Chacal, Miscelanea Festival, Odeon
Cine and Cinelandia Square, Rio de Janeiro
2001 live clothes making – Carnival Edition, performance, curator Chacal, Miscelanea Festival, Odeon
Cine, Rio de Janeiro
2000 furos (holes) group fashion show in comemorative event for 500 years of Brasil, curators Eloysa
Simão and Giorgio Knapp, Rio de Janeiro
1999 ímãs (magnets), fashion show –performance, Babilonia Hype Fair, Rio de Janeiro
live clothes making with improvised fashion show, performance, Cep 20000, Casa França- Brasil, Rio de
Janeiro vraiplastik, fashion show-performance, Almanaque 99 Museum of Modern Art, Rio de Janeiro
Galerie Catherine Bastide
62 Chaussée de Forest – 1060 Saint-Gilles - +32 (0) 2 646 2971
[email protected] - www.catherinebastide.com
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EXHIBITIONS
2004 Inventario do tempo, group exhibition, curator Bia Lessa, Dulcina Theater, Rio de janeiro
Instrospectiva 1, solo exhibition of fashion work, Ateliê Culinário Gallery ,Ipanema, Rio de janeiro
LECTURES AND TEACHING
2006 – till now Fashion Creation, teacher in the design graduation, PUC University, Rio de janeiro
2007 Lecture about fashion and design, Design course, PUC University , Rio de janeiro
2004 lecture about fashion and art, Design course, PUC University , Rio de janeiro
2002 Fashion Creation Lab, SENAC, Rio de janeiro
FASHION ADVISEMENT
2006 AUM Project, in partnership with Verônica
D’Orey developping collections fort he Ongs and
artisans Fuxicarte, Sónia Honório and Ação
Comunitária do Brasil, Fashion Business, Rio de
Janeiro
2004-2006 Art Industry Project , FIRJAN (Federation
of Industries of the State of Rio de Janeiro),
qualification on fashion design for artisans
developping and presenting collections for selected
institutions for the program in Fashion Business, Rio
de Janeiro
COSTUME DESIGN
Plays, films and music (selection among other works
from 1995-2007)
2007 Trace_Obs About Medea, based on the play by
Euripides, directed by Fábio Ferreira, Sesc
Copacabana, Rio de janeiro
2006 ArTorquato, a play based on the work of
Torquato Neto, directed by António Quinet, Espaço
Cultural dos Correios, Rio de Janeiro Urban Angels, a
play by Rosane Svartman, directed by Isabel
Diegues, Sesc Rio and Gávea Planetarium, Rio de
Janeiro Cada Um, a dance play by Frederico Paredes,
Marcelle Sampaio and Patrícia Niedermeier, Kunsten
Festival des Arts, Brussels, Belgium Free Money(
Brazilian Trilogy Part II), a play by Michel Melamed,
directed by Alessandra Colassanti, Sesc Copacabana,
Rio de Janeiro
2005 Kalldewey, Farce, a play by Botho Strauss, directed by Caco Coelho, CCBB, Rio de Janeiro
Valsa Nº 6, a play by Nelson Rodrigues, directed by Denise Milfont, Telemar Cultural Institut, Rio de
Janeiro
2004-2007 Regurgitophagy (Brazilian Trilogy Part I)”, a play by Michel Melamed, directed by Alessandra
Colassanti and Marco Abujamra, Espaço Cultural Sérgio Porto, Rio de Janeiro, Teatro Cândido Mendes,
Rio de Janeiro, SESC, São Paulo, Carreau du Temple , Paris, Mabou Mines, New York, Café Hamm,
Koblenz, Ballhaus Ost, Berlim
2000 Amor I Love You, costume design for Marisa Monte videoclip, directed by Breno Silveira and Lula
Buarque, Conspiração Films, Award MTV Brasil best videoclip
1999 Mais Feliz, costume design for Adriana Calcanhotto videoclip, directed by Isabel Diegues,
Sambascope Films
1997 Chronically Unfeasible, a film by Sérgio Bianchi, costume design with Beatriz Bianco, production
Sérgio Bianch
Galerie Catherine Bastide
62 Chaussée de Forest – 1060 Saint-Gilles - +32 (0) 2 646 2971
[email protected] - www.catherinebastide.com
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Galerie Catherine Bastide
62 Chaussée de Forest – 1060 Saint-Gilles - +32 (0) 2 646 2971
[email protected] - www.catherinebastide.com
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